The Way of Saint James via Camino Francè

Day 48 – Salceda to Lavacolla

We breakfasted on donuts, some kind of pastry, orange juice, and coffee at Casa Tia Teresa where we bedded down for the night. When I ordered the donuts Senor patted his stomach and wagged his finger at me then pointed at the fresh pastry. I looked down at my tummy and decided it was much flatter than seven weeks ago and we compromised on one pastry and three donuts. Nancy had the pastry.

When you order orange juice in Spain you get the real thing. Fresh squeezed. They toss a couple dozen oranges into the bin on top then push start. The oranges go down chutes on the left and right. It cuts the oranges in half  at some point then mashes the halves. The rinds fall into the orange buckets and the juice into the stainless ewers underneath. Takes about six oranges per glass full. Maybe you have seen these before but I haven’t.  Fun to watch.

Well, we got off to a slow start after that breakfast; about 8:30 or 9:00. But this is the last full day of walking and we made good time  mostly out of excitement. Tomorrow we will be in Santiago de Compostela! But there is still much to see on the trail. It was cloudless but the sun took a long time burning away the morning fog.

The highlight of this days events was to watch three newborn sheep. I guess they are called kids. One was prancing around looking for mischief but couldn’t get the others to wake up so just as we shot this picture he was settling in with the other two.

It was a long walk of 17 km so we had time to reflect on our experiences on the Camino. Mostly about did we achieve our spiritual goals or just slog along without purpose? I don’t think we will really be able to answer until a few days have passed after reaching the Cathedral of St James. Too much to collate in our brains just now. But if suffering for Christ has any value then we certainly did that. I hope that when it’s our turn to kneel at the relics and remains of James the greater that our minds will be clearer. Jesus calls his own and sets them on a path.  The Fellowship of the Camino affected all pilgrims. Not just the Catholics or Protestants or those just testing their endurance. There is nothing one pilgrim will not do to help another pilgrim. Maybe having learned that then maybe we are expected to spread that fellowship wherever we go and on returning home.

Santiago tomorrow!

View more photos from week 7

Day 47 – Castañeda to Salceda

We left Castañeda at dawn after toast and coffee.  We entered a grove of Eucalyptus trees right away when heading back to the path. We have had to settle for accommodations off of the path a ways because of the flood of new walkers out of Sarria.  Booking lodging past Sarria was difficult as place after place was filled up.  But at least we do have reservations for the rest of the Way including 3 days in Santiago.

Today’s was fun. Not the first part because the sun came out quickly and the already humid air seemed to get more humid and a cooling breeze just refused to show up. But later as we walked through a deep wet path we spied a host of mushrooms new to us. Most were found along a 1 km stretch on that wet path. Check out the photo gallery for week seven to see these mushrooms.

We also found an unusual tractor just a short time later. If you look closely you’ll see the name on the hood. Lamborghini! I thought they only made expensive luxury sports cars.

Later still we got to see a caca spreader in action applying that sludge to a crop field and then watch as the caca producers were led to pasture after milking.
Nancy got to mail a couple of postcards at Arüza, which was the only big town we’ve been in today. Our albergue was still 4 miles away so we didn’t linger there long.

The trail was a rollercoaster of ups and downs through beautiful pasture land and contented milk cows. Maybe occasional sheep.

Tonights lodging is on the path. It’s run by a Spanish couple who know what pilgrims need; beer, food, clean rooms, and a shower so powerful it’ll take your skin off.

We had perigrinos beer, a huge salad, and hamburgers with fried eggs in them. Nancy did some laundry then we watched some farmers hand harvest dried ears of corn, shucking the ears and tossing them into a tractor drawn cart, and cutting down the stalks.

View more photos from week 7

Day 46 – Casanova to Castañeda

We had a very nice stay at Alberque A Bolboreta near Casanova. This place was 2.5 km off of the Camino and the owner came to Casanova to pick us up. After a good breakfast of coffee and buttered toast with marmalade he took us back to the trail where we had left off.

Two girls also wanted to ride back to the trail so we waited on them for 45 minutes. Finally we left without them. The trail was long and dusty. The sun came out about 11 AM and warmed things up. But it was muggy humid and very little breeze. The trail was bordered with oak and chestnut trees and the path was worn deep into the ground making a sort of tunnel effect.

We walked and walked through an almost unending series of villages with little countryside between them. Most were quiet without cafe/bars catering to perigrinos. We finally came to Castañeda tired from relentless up and down slopes, heat, and humidity.  But Google Maps said we still had 4 km to go to the albergue. Weak cell strength made it difficult for Google to pinpoint our location though it knew the latitude and longitude of our lodging so we kept on walking, finding it beautifully nestled in some trees along a highway.

Nancy washed some clothes in the sink and hung them in our window to dry. Yup. Underwear.

We had perigrino supper with the first Kansan we had yet to meet and one from Missouri. These ladies were walking together. The lady on the left is from Lawrence.

In a shelter out back was stored an original oxcart that has not been restored. Really a museum piece.

View more photos from week 7